A Guatemalan artist and his workshop
On Saturday morning we woke up early enough to visit with Fernando Pinzón, an artist whose existence became known to me via an email notification. He and his artwork were featured in Revue, Guatemala’s English-language magazine.
Through a couple months of Facebook messaging, I was able to learn more about him. For example, Fernando suffers from the aftermath of polio. He developed polio as a two-year old, and rather recently had a surgery where his meniscus was severed. As result, it is extremely difficult for him to get around. He wears arm braces and walks very laboriously with feet that take steps to the side and inward rather that heel-to-toe-forward. It is very painful, and very hard for him to get around. Wheelchair accessibility is not a “thing” in the highlands of Guatemala, and even if it were, he does not have the funds for a wheelchair. Having to use both arms for braces, it is not easy for him to transport his things to a market to sell, and he is rather limited to his current town of Panajachel because he is “bullied” by chicken bus drivers and other mass transit because he is not physically able to “hop on” and “hop off” buses when they stop. He needs extra time and space when using public transportation — really any sort of mobility — and it just isn’t granted to him.. He has had to make do and learn to survive the best he can.
Despite his physical limitations, Fernando is extremely upbeat — and TALENTED! Fernando has a variety of ways of artistic expression, but the items featured in the magazine article and those he shared with us are journals that are handmade using recycled or natural materials.
First, he cuts banana leaf paper to size. He then hand sews and glue-binds the paper into booklet form and then covers the binding, creating a spine of either leather or coffee bag burlap. The covers of the book are made of wood, usually painted with blended hues, and then adorned with natural or recycled materials before being sealed with a protective lacquer.
Fernando purchases or has donated to him leather jackets and skirts and the like. He cuts them up and uses the best parts in his recycled craft. After he attaches the front and back covers to the bound books, he signs and dates on the inside back cover or last page of banana leaf paper. Voila, a beautiful finished product!
Some of the recycled or natural materials that he uses include dried flowers and leaves, seeds, bicycle tires and gears, electronic components and chips, small buckles, clasps and other hardware. Sometimes he even uses a wood-burning or dremel tool to further embellish the wood covers.
He really has a sharp eye for details, and creates beautiful work. I was excited by the opportunity to meet him. In our Facebook messaging, Fernando had explained that there were some medicines that would help him with the cartilage repair and healing, but that they were too expensive in Guatemala. I decided to purchase Glucosamine Sulfate powder and Calcium pills for him in the States and bring them down for him. He was very gracious.
He also appreciated that I brought my family and Trent to see him on Saturday morning. We met at a convenient, easy to find place. Upon our arrival, we slowly walked back to the home where he was living. It was a beautiful home, and he had the ability to stay there and receive room and board in exchange for some light housework and house-sitting during José (the owner’s) absence. His workshop is on the second floor and he had to use arm strength to get up, and “scooting” to get down the stairs, but it is convenient for him to have a little work space to call his own. It is only partially covered (the other half being open-air, as it is on the roof) but he called it his “cave”.
While we were in Fernando’s cave hearing about his life story and admiring his journals, José had drinks brought up to us. We enjoyed fresh fruit juice as we browsed journals. I ended up purchasing a blue one with a blue leather spine and dried flowers affixed to the front. It was gorgeous, but it was honestly hard to choose… so many of them were beautiful and unique.
Trent also bought one. When we got up to leave, I thought to myself how nice it would have been to purchase more than one, but I didn’t say anything because I knew that I shouldn’t spend too much of my money on souvenirs. We’d be coming back to Guatemala a number of times in the future, and I want to start saving my money again in anticipation of the next time! Sooner the better!
We walked back to the hotel, thinking how fortunate we were to have full use of our limbs. Despite the difficult terrain in San Jorge and how my knees were a little sore from the strain, I knew how lucky I was to have the strength in my legs and the muscles to support it.
After we regrouped and had a bit of lunch, I took the kids to the Atitlan Nature Reserve so that they could, once again, experience the zip lines. Like last time, I stayed on ground, enjoying the waterfalls, suspension bridges, and lower impact climbs. There were two things that were more special and enjoyable with this visit as compared to the visit two years ago.
First, the spider monkeys were on the ground this time, not high in the trees, so therefore were much easier to see and enjoy. They were enjoying some bananas.
Second, I wandered through the butterfly exhibit this year, something I didn’t make time for two years ago. My favorite butterfly was one with transparent wings! While all of them were beautiful, it was most spectacular for me.
After the nature reserve, a tuk tuk ride took us back to the hotel where we met John. While we were at the nature reserve, he had taken the opportunity to walk all around Pana, visiting the beach and boat launch. By this time of day, we were all hungry, so we enjoyed a nice meal at Casablanca and another walk to the lake.
It was almost 9pm by the time we got back to the hotel for the evening. John decided to open up and share with me how torn he was about leaving all of Fernando’s remaining journals on the table. He knew they were so unique and that we could easily use them as a fundraiser. They would be easy to pack in our luggage, appeal to a wide variety of people, and help Fernando out at the same time.
After a little further discussion, we decided to contact Fernando and let him know that we’d like to purchase the rest of the journals that he showed us. Trouble was… we were leaving Pana at 8:30 the next morning, so that we’d have to arrange to meet yet that evening or very early in the morning.
I was tired of walking, and really looking forward to calming down for the evening. But, Fernando was anxious to transact our business that same evening, letting us know that he likes going to church at 8am. I couldn’t argue that, and in fact, I was a little worried about putting my eggs in one basket and planning to get something done at the last minute. Given that it is hard to “time” events in Guatemala, I didn’t want to miss the opportunity altogether.
José used his motorcycle to drive Fernando and his sack of journals to meet us in our hotel reception area. John and I met with Fernando and José, talked a little more about merchandising and consigning his journals for maximum profit and least effort. John suggested to Fernando that he try to establish relationships with local retailers (especially those that own higher end or specialty stores) that might be willing to display his journals in Panajachel in exchange for a cut of the profit.
To thank us, Fernando gave us each a “tiny book” which was a miniature version of his bound books attached to a necklace or cord and a dangle charm Trent’s dangle was petrified rock, John’s was onyx, and mine was a different stone whose name I didn’t catch. What a special remembrance of our day with Fernando.
When we paid him for the 15 journals he delivered, he was more happy than I can explain. He told us that he was going to put the money towards getting himself an electric wheelchair or scooter so that he would have greater mobility. I was so happy to hear that news that I got choked up myself. What I difference a person can make in the life of another… with so little time and effort. The nice thing is… we helped him, but he is also helping us! The profit generated from the resale of his journals in the states will be enough to install another stove!
To no surprise, within a short while of posting photos of them on Facebook, there was a very positive response, and six journals sold. Everyone went to bed that night feeling very happy.